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HOLLY MIRANDA SMALE

Writer, photographer, "rapper" and general technophobe takes on the internet in what could be a very, very messy fight. But it's alright: she's harder than she looks, and she's wearing every single ring she could get her hands on.







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Sunday 20 February 2011

In Passing

My friend Yuki just sent me an email. I am so sorry that you passed away yesterday, she wrote. How do you feel today?

I didn't think I could get any sicker than I currently feel, but apparently - via the complex subtleties of the English language - I can. Passed out, Yuki, I emailed back. Passed out. I didn't die, although it now feels like I may have done. Small but extremely important difference. 


Shit, sorry, she wrote back. Passed on?

Still means dead.

I'm sorry you fell asleep yesterday, she wrote. I'd be sorry if you died too, just so you know.  


Which has actually made my hangover feel remarkably better. It's amazing how a little bit of your own death can put things in perspective.

Smacked bottom

I just had what was - by all accounts - the best house party in the history of all house parties.

There was a naked wrestling match between five of the male guests, who decided at 2am to take their clothes off and start throwing each other around my living room. One of the guests fell asleep in the spare room, only to be woken up by an Irishman who had thrown Betty on top and was attempting to surf her. Half way through, a few guests disappeared to the local bar where they got on stage for an impromptu musical performance, complete with guitar, and then came back with printed out photos to show everybody. Baba - when I turned up with a male friend to borrow a wine opener - was delighted that I had finally found a potential husband, and arrived ten minutes later at the party with a huge bottle of sho-chu and strict instructions that I was to go nowhere near my scooter. There was a misunderstanding between three friends, which resulted in a lot of drunken crying, the boys took turns putting on my scooter helmet and punching each other in the head, and the girls took turns rolling their eyes at the boys. There was a tickling contest; Billy the 2Pint Bong was brought out, and brand new lifelong friends and possibly soulmates were made. It was, according to reports, the most fun anyone had ever had, and nobody will ever have that fun again. Ever.

And I say according to reports, because sadly I wasn't there for any of it.

I was there in body, obviously. That was the whole point. I was throwing a party because I've been so wrapped up writing that I've seen nobody for weeks and weeks, and I needed - desperately - to let my hair down and see my friends. So I didn't just plan a party: I spent the day cleaning the house, buying ice, alcohol, crisps, rearranging furniture, borrowing futons and cushions, and purchasing a brand new lipstick. I scrubbed and scoured and decorated and set up fairy lights in the living room. I even cleaned the spare room, and I never clean the spare room. So determined, I was, to let my hair down and have fun - and so nervous, I was, about being around people after so long on my own - that as soon as Yuki turned up I cracked open the rum, and by the time the second guest arrived, I was drunk. By the time the third and fourth guests arrived I was hammered, and by the time Shin rocked up and forced me to drink almost 2 pints of rum and whiskey with a dash of coke from a Bong (which - for the sake of my grandparents - is a long tube with a funnel that forces alcohol down your throat at lightening speed, although as my grandad used to be a policeman he probably already knows this), I was explaining to Yuki that whenever I pee into a Japanese toilet I end up peeing on my right foot and attempting to faux-demonstrate behind the sofa.

And that was the end of the party for me. I vomited, fell asleep wrapped around the toilet - which I haven't done since University - and was carried to bed where I stayed, unconscious, for the rest of the night. Apparently I was involved in some of the wrestling, in that for about five minutes they moved it to the bedroom for my benefit and for a little while I was sleeping underneath it, and I have a vague, dreamlike memory of running to the toilet to vomit again and being aware that none of the boys were wearing any clothes, which seemed quite normal at the time (my friends like getting naked: I blame onsens). But other than that: my party ended at around 9.30pm. Everyone else's ended seven hours later.

"What happened?" I asked the two remaining stragglers when I woke up this morning.
"Best party ever," they said. "Seriously. You throw awesome parties, Holly."
"Oh you're kidding me," I snapped. "I threw an amazing party and then passed out for the whole thing?"
"If it helps, you woke up when we were wrestling on top of you, punched Shin in the face and then immediately passed out again. So at least you did it in style."
"Oh for God's sake. The whole point of having a party was for me to actually have a party. Not to prepare one, sleep through it and then clean it up afterwards."

This morning, when Baba turned up to help me carry my rubbish to the bin (grilling me the entire way about why I couldn't get a boyfriend), she asked me if I had had a fun time.
"Not really," I said. "I drank too much too quickly, vomited and fell asleep after an hour and a half." This I told her via the international language of a drinky drinky charade.
"Horrreee!" she cried. "You are very naughty!"

And then she whacked me hard on the bottom. Which is exactly what I deserve at the grand old age of 29 if I haven't learnt by now that you can't transform yourself from teetotal hermit to party-girl hostess in fifteen minutes flat without suffering repercussions.

It is now Sunday lunchtime, and all I have to show for all of my hard work on Saturday is a smacked bottom, a stonking hangover, a rearranged house, four bowls of stale popcorn and approximately 24 bottles of half drunk coke in my kitchen. Which means that I'm going to have to throw another party in March so that I can finally have some fun as well. During which I will be staying well away from hard spirits, naked boys, Shin and/or his Bong.

After all, it's all very well and good throwing the best parties in the world, but there isn't a lot of point if you spend the whole time in another one entirely.

Thursday 17 February 2011

Breaking up

There comes a point in every relationship when you know it`s the end.

For me, this point is normally well after the actual end has already happened. I`ll hang on in there, gamely trying to give it another go, until the other party is trying to kick me away with steel toed boots on and poking me with a long stick they bought specially. Not for me the habit of walking away from a relationship too quickly or too easily. No: I like to stay until walking is no longer possible, and all I can do is crawl along the floor using my chin as levitation.

Which is why what I`m about to announce comes as a bit of a surprise: to myself, if to nobody else. I`m leaving Japan.

Our relationship is over. It`s not on its way out; it`s not going through a few rough patches. It`s not struggling because of the weather. It`s dead: caput, rotting, deceased, gone to meet its maker. It was dying at Christmas - I had little to no interest in Kyoto, or Osaka, or Nara, and found myself thinking at the base of some of the world`s most famous temples and shrines Oh, look, another goddamn bit of red wood and some more bells - and by the time I came off my not-so-happy-pills there was really no way of saving it (drugs are the only thing in the world that can make me not care that I don`t love something: hence why I always end up on them in relationships with men). I`m not in love with Japan anymore, and yes: I`d like to be friends, but I`m only saying that to make us both feel better.

When Japan asks why I`m leaving, though, I won`t know what to tell it. But you used to adore me, it`s going to say: You said I was The One. I thought you found me exciting. And I did, I`ll have to tell it, but I don`t anymore and I`m sorry: my feelings have simply changed. I can`t change them back.

Everything I used to love about Japan now irritates me. The sound of the Japanese language - a language that deep down I still think is one of the most beautiful in the world - has started to bug the hell out of me. When my work colleagues chatter away to each other right next to my chair - inexplicably standing over me, as they`re doing at this very moment, for instance - and they make "eeeeeeeehhhh??" and "ugh ugh ugh" sounds that are very, very Japanese, I want to rip their vocal cords out with my bare hands. The children are frequently irritating me: their obsession with Rock Paper Scissoring me every time they see me now resulting in me dodging around the school trying to avoid their scrunched up little fists. I`ve lost my Rs: I`ve started speaking English with a Japanese L sound instead, which meant that the world gorilla a couple of days ago caused serious problems. I`m tired of having to say everything slowly, and carefully, and three times to be understood: I`m tired of never having a normal, natural conversation, where my brain is engaged with content, rather than simply execution. I`m sick of having to do paperwork for everything, because Japan doesn`t function unless you fill out a form for every element of your life and I do not like frigging paperwork. Which means I`m constantly in trouble. And I do not like being constantly in trouble, especially when it`s being in trouble in a language I barely understand.

It`s more than that, though. And these are the things I won`t tell Japan when it asks: the things that would hurt it unnecessarily. I`m sick of seeing green fields everywhere and signs I can`t read: I`m sick of not being able to buy a foundation in the right colour or shoes that fit me. The smell and taste of Japanese food is starting to make me nauseous: I`m avoiding soy sauce like arsenic, and the texture of rice is beginning to make me gag. The insincerity of the irrrrasssshhhiiimmaaassseee every time I enter a shop (weeeelllllccccooooommmmmeee) is driving me insane. Stop yelling at mmmeeeee I want to scream back: you don`t even mean it. I don`t want to do Karaoke, I don`t want to eat raw fish, I don`t want to look at any more goddamn rice fields. I don`t want to hear the strange chirupping sound the zebra crossings make when you`re supposed to cross, and I don`t want to have to listen to six different radios playing simultaneously when I go grocery shopping. I don`t want to see any more men that look or sound even remotely like my soulless void of an ex boyfriend. I don`t want to get stared at when I walk into shops: I want to be able to go for a goddamn dinner on a Friday night without an entire restaurant immediately turning around to stare.

Even the sea is irritating me. No matter what time of year it is, no matter what time of day it is, it`s constantly full of surfers who are out there regardless of whether or not there are any waves. All I want to do is stand on the shore and shout Stop littering up the water!

Suffice to say: I`m not in love with Japan anymore, and every day that goes past I love it a little bit less. So I`m leaving.

Unfortunately, I`m not leaving until July (unless the people I work for read this, in which case I`d imagine I`ll be leaving in about three hours). As with any long term relationship, you can`t just cut and run because the love is gone: there is administration to do, and important things to tie up. I have a contract to finish, and a lot of money I have not managed to save yet, and a book to finish off writing (that`s where I`ve been for the last fortnight, incidentally: the first draft is now done, and just needs editing). I have a school year to finish out, and goodbyes to say. And - more important than all of that - I need to work out what the hell I`m doing next, because I have absolutely no idea. The desire to hide in a Buddhist monastery in Tibet - so incredibly strong six months ago when I was heartbroken and exhausted and swearing off men forever and ever - is no longer there: a year of living on my own in the middle of bogging nowhere has killed it right off. And the desire to jump into another teaching job is also fairly miniscule. There are only so many children you can teach without getting one single sincere thankyou before you think: you know what? Teach your bloody selves.

It`s a temporary loathing: I know that. It`s the same with every failed relationship: at the point where you leave, it`s natural to hate everything. In fact, it`s necessary, or you would never leave in the first place. Deep down, under all the irritation and all the knee-jerk anger, I still care very much about Japan: deep down, of course I`m very fond of the children and the food and the culture and the language. I don`t regret being here. But I don`t love it anymore, and so it is over. And while I may return one day, it will only be for a holiday, and it will only be as friends.

I`m terrified. I don`t remember what life is like without Japan, and I won`t know where to go, or what to do, when it`s over. It has become a part of me, and the thought of being anywhere else scares me senseless. I have no doubt that when I go I`ll feel lost, and scared, and I`ll miss it horribly and wish I`d never left. And I also have no doubt that now I`ve told it I`m leaving, I`ll start wishing I could stay and loving it all over again. But it doesn`t matter. When love is gone and you know it`s not The One, the only truly honourable thing left to do is to leave before you start looking for it elsewhere. To leave before you have to drag yourself away, or end up in two places at the same time. Before you end up hating it and spoiling it forever.

But the beautiful thing? The strength to leave Japan is the strength that Japan gave me.

And - for that, and for many other things - I will always adore it.

Wednesday 2 February 2011

Anne

Yesterday, I learnt with delight that Anne of Green Gables - my favourite book of all time - is huge in Japan.

It was a book that was a pivotal part of my childhood, because I, too, was a freckled, redheaded, skinny child with no friends, an overactive imagination and the inability to put anything in perspective, and so I loved all of the Anne books with a deep and fervent passion: drew an entirely unrealistic amount of comfort from her lifelong romance with Gilbert Blythe and her meteoric rise from unloveable orphan to - ahem - teacher (at the time I was deeply unimpressed by this: with hindsight, perhaps even less so) and I was definitely under the impression for a long time that she and I were actually the same person, a century removed from each other. She remains, as far as I`m concerned, one of the most vivid fictional characters ever created, and so while she may not have been particularly well loved by my peers (they were busy dancing to MC Hammer) it wasn`t a massive surprise to me that she`s been adored in Japan for decades. Harry Potter, it seems, was not the only Western children`s novel that captured the imaginations of a nation of adults, and Akage no An (Anne of Red Hair) was both an anime and a compulsory text in Junior High school for a number of years.

I can only assume that those years were not the ones during which the head of the English department at Kitago was at school.

"Have you heard of Akage no An?" I asked her this morning.
"Of course!" she said. "It is very famous here. Although I never read it. But I heard of it."
"It`s my favourite book!" I told her enthusiastically. "Isn`t it wonderful? Isn`t it just so heartwarming?"
My colleague looked at me in shock. "Mmmm," she said. "You really think so?"
"Of course! I`ve loved it since I was a child. It makes me so happy."
Yuko looked even more alarmed.
"It makes you happy? But it`s very sad, isn`t it?"
"Is it?" I`m rereading it at the moment, but I couldn`t remember it being particularly sad when I was eight years old. "What`s sad about it?"
"Well, she dies doesn`t she?"
"Umm...." I trawled my memory. "I don`t think so. I mean, there`s six books and she gets married and has children. Maybe she dies in the last one, but...."
"No, I`m certain she dies. Anne with red hair: she dies, I am sure of it."
"Really? Crikey. What have the Japanese done to it? She didn`t die in England."
"Yes, yes, she dies. Very sad. And she`s - - - nandake....." Yuko got her dictionary out. "A Jew?"
"Anne of Green Gables is a Jew? Now that definitely wasn`t in the Canadian version. Why have the Japanese made her a Jew?"
"She`s a Jew and she dies. It`s terrible. Not heartwarming at all. It shouldn`t make you happy, Holly."
"No, I can see that dying wouldn`t be heartwarming but...." I looked at Yuko. "Hang on. A Jewish Anne who dies and it`s very sad? Are you talking about Anne Frank by any chance?"
"Anne who? Did she have red hair?"
"No. She was a little girl who kept a diary in the War and was killed by the Nazis, and it`s very sad and does not make me happy."
"That`s it! But she`s not Anne with Red Hair? She`s not this Anne of Green Gables?"
"No. She`s a different Anne entirely."
"Ooooh. I thought they were the same person. That`s why I never read the book."
"Right. Well. There is a bit of a difference. Unfortunately, because Anne of Green Gables is fictional and Anne Frank was not."
"Maybe I`ll read that one now then. If she doesn`t die in a concentration camp."
"I think I can promise you quite solemnly that Anne of Green Gables does not die in a concentration camp. Tragically, the one who did was real."

I`m not sure, exactly, what the marketing around Anne has been in Japan, but it has clearly become a little bit confused; leaving an entire generation to well up as soon as they spot a red plait. And as happy as I am that Anne is so popular here - both of them, combined into one person - it seems even more poignant that the fictional girl got such a lovely ending, and the real girl such a tragic one.

There`s scope for imagination here, after all, in swapping them over.

Tuesday 1 February 2011

Scooby Died

When you learn a lesson in one area of your life, there is absolutely no reason why this lesson can`t be applied to other parts of it too.

From my last foul relationship, I learnt a lot. I learnt that hanging desperately on to something that is constantly trying to hurt you is extremely dangerous. I learnt that depending on something that is going nowhere is silly, and that if it has to be kick started every morning there`ll never be a point where you don`t expect it not to kick start at all. I learnt that if you can`t tell where something is going you`re probably not supposed to go with it, and if you have to beg it constantly to function you probably shouldn`t be with it in the first place. I learnt that if you spend more time and energy worrying about when it`s going to fall apart than you do enjoying the fact that it hasn`t yet, there are better things you could be doing, and if you`re constantly tensed for the end then you`ll never enjoy the beginning. I learnt that if something is trying to kill you it`s a good idea to walk away before it manages it, and if they have a deep dark hole in them that you can`t see but know is there then there`s absolutely no point in trying to block it up because you can`t. And I learnt - perhaps most importantly - that if they`re old they`re old, that it`s not a good thing if you look closely and find that they`re going bald, and if you ignore it they`re just going to get older and balder.

All of which can also be applied to my scooter.

Scooby did his best, poor mite. He has gamely carried me to and from school for nearly three months: dealt with all sorts of bad driving and rough country stones and ash from volcanos. But it has been clear for a while now that it was never going to be a healthy relationship: that every single morning it was extremely debatable whether or not he was going to wake up again, no matter how hard I kicked him. He has one mirror. He has no speedometer, which isn`t actually a problem because he can`t go any faster than 30kmh but it still doesn`t bode well for this general health. He`s had five flat tyres in three weeks, and he won`t stop indicating, except that he changes his mind every three seconds about what direction he plans to head in. He has, as of this past weekend, no light, which means I can`t take him anywhere at night-time, he coughs for the first 20 minutes of every ride, and his tyres are so sleek and smooth I can see my face in them. And you`re not supposed to be able to see your face in tyres. It`s very dangerous.

Normally, of course - if I was the Old Me (this is how I now refer to the Me who was a bit of a walkover) - I`d wait and I`d wait and I`d wait and I`d hope that somehow, magically, he fixed himself. And even though I`d know that it was pretty rare for scooters to fix their own tyres and brakes and front lights and indicators, I`d still hope. I`d get on that damn scooter and I`d continue whispering please please please continuously, and hoping furiously that it didn`t get fed up and decide to kill me just to shut me up. And then, even though I`d know, deep down, that it was inevitable, I`d wait until it was too late and he fell apart completely and stopped functioning and then I would cry and cry and cry because I`d be totally screwed and probably in pieces too.

Luckily, I`m not the Old Me anymore, and the New Me has learnt her lesson. I`ve been secretly prowling around scooter shops when Scooby wasn`t looking for weeks and weeks now, and last night I finally found something that Will Do: a scooter that actually functions. It`s not my perfect scooter - it`s not the cream and brown leather Italian Vespa I`m going to end up with one day - but it`ll get me to and from school for the rest of my time in Japan, and I can pimp it up nicely enough to make it acceptable to myself and to my students. So I bought it. I handed the money over on the spot and I bought it: both on impulse, and on sensible consideration. And I have one week to wait before he`s ready to start his next relationship and we can begin something new together.

This morning, minutes after coaxing Scooby awake, he died. In fact, he chose the most dangerous possible time to fall apart, just as I knew he would: at the exact moment I pulled out in front of a large lorry. The back tyre exploded, Scooby made a very sad little sound and gave up the ghost exactly two thirds of the way across a main road, and I just about made it to safety before the lorry forced me to give up the ghost too. And as unsentimental as I am, now, (the New Me, not the Old Me), I`m ashamed to say that I swore, left the dead Scooby on the side of the road and got an incredibly expensive taxi to work. And I may have stuck my finger up at him as the taxi drove past.

So I`ve finally learnt my lesson. Just. I learnt my lesson about 12 hours before I would have had to learn the same lesson all over again, except this time with a lorry smashing me up instead of a boy. And it still cost me 25 quid in taxi fees.

When something is broken, there`s no point wasting your time and energy and money trying to fix it: get another one. Don`t wait until it leaves you a mess on the side of the road. And if the next one isn`t perfect? So be it.

It`ll help you to get to the one that is.